Day 25. Villanueva to Zamora (19 km)

More scenery, similar to yesterday, that I need to document.

Arrived in Zamora, a historic city which is filled with Spanish tourists for Easter week.

Checked out the castle, cathedral,  tapestries, processional preparations.

All of your time on the Camino cannot be sublime. Upon arrival at the albergue,  certain tasks must be completed – paperwork, laying claim to a bottom bunk, unpacking entire pack, charging phone, showering, washing socks and underpants as a minimum, hanging to dry while there is sun, rearranging things to minimize commotion when returning in the evening.

In a small village, when that is all done (or before) you can retire to the local bar for a beer and some tapas while you wait for the pilgrim dinner to be offered (sometimes as early as 7). However, in a Spanish city, the pilgrims need to fend for themselves, and food is not easy to find between 3:30 and 8:30. I was reluctant to wait until 8:30 in Zamora because the city is packed with tourists and I had a strict 10 p.m. curfew. Furthermore, Easter processions were starting at 8:30 and at midnight.

My dinner, in the end, was:

  1. Primer plato: Magnum ice cream bar
  2. Segundo: Slice of empanada of ham, cheese and dates
  3. Bebida: Gin and tonic
  4. Postre: Large chocolate eclair.20170412_193913.jpg

Back in the albergue, snug in my sleeping bag, I got to listen to the drums of the processions, thousands of people passing in the streets, and some gentle snoring within the room.

10 thoughts on “Day 25. Villanueva to Zamora (19 km)

  1. Hi Clare, this curfew thing is something that gives me pause about the camino. I have lived in Spain (actually the Canary Islands) and know that the fun can start quite late, and go on for some time. While I appreciate that the goal of a pilgrimage is not tourism, and an early start is always the goal, I personally would be frustrated to be lying in my bunk listening to Easter festivities happening outside, without me. I guess this is a case where a hotel might be my own best bet.

    Also: have you encountered pilgrims with tents?

    • No I haven’t encountered any with tents. They exist but I don’t see that as a way to cope with curfews! Oddly, the curfew and removal from the activities didn’t bother me, as I’ve seen some processions in the past (this year and last) and I accept that my role as pilgrim includes this detail. Also, the exhaustion factor means that I don’t mind the need to go to bed earth!

    • “… go to bed earth!”
      This might have been a typo/autocorrect for “…bed early!” but I find it a subtle yet profound way to describe sleep as well. Duerma Bien!

    • I always have nuts and chocolate, usually also a banana and orange while walking. Then the big dinner at 8 pm. It’s very different from home, but usually I feel satisfied. I’ve never lost weight on a Camino!

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