Or: A glorious day along the N-120 highway
I tried to avoid it, but missed the turnoff to the nicer (but slightly longer and hillier) route. In the “yellow German guide”, now available in English, Raimondo Joos writes “This route is only recommended for pronounced masochists, hardcore car enthusiasts, and people who want to purge especially severe sins.” I’m not sure which group I fall into, but I can confirm that the route is short on charm. I even got my first blister, but nothing major.
In fact, I still enjoyed the day – it is a joy to be out walking on an adventure in perfect weather. The sore feet, tired body, and less-than-beautiful landscape are just part of it. Nevertheless, it gave me great pleasure to approach the medieval bridge and see Hospital de Orbigos!
I’m now in the serene Albergue Verde with a very civilized group of people, resting on a bottom bunk, awaiting a vegetarian paella that is cooking and smells delicious.