Taxi from Kathmandu to the town of Bhaktapur, 16 km away. Bhaktapur is a medieval city state that had one of the best preserved Durbar Squares with temples and palaces – until the 2015 earthquake.

I had booked something vaguely quaint in the mid-price range. Here, that means C$40. It was fine except with nightime temperatures of 4 C, it was necessary to wear my merino long johns and down vest. The owners were very nice and involved in various nonprofit organizations and educational projects, with the guest house providing some income. Before bedtime they brought two very hot hot water bottles, for use under the two down quilts.

The town is busy, with people working in shops open to the street, school kids coming and going, variety of dress styles. Everywhere, it was obvious that life is hard enough without having to deal with earthquakes. Our hotel re-opened last year after being closed for 2 years, due to serious damage. You can see rebar everywhere!

Children from the Buddhist school made the rounds collecting alms…