Day 22. Retortillo de Soria to Caracena (29 km)

This was a long and scenic day. We decided to stick together, since there were supposed to be some difficult sections, and because cell phone reception was iffy.

First, a side trip on the GR 86, for which we were really glad to have GPS tracks. Even with them, some time was spent wandering! 

The remains of structures built on caves was intriguing. I wonder how long people have done that, in this location, and whether they housed people or livestock or both. Notice the holes that look like places for wooden beams to be supported.

Then walking through the canyon of the Rio Caracena. The river was a tinkling brook, but the canyon was huge and dramatic. We had to scramble up a few rocky outcrops but nothing two happy septagenarians couldn’t handle.

Finally, the village of Caracena, which might be my favourite place of this Camino. At the top of the village (population 15) was a bar, with food by a trained chef (son of bar owner), an old house being renovated as a guest house by that son, and a Romanesque church to which the same family have the key. Then, just before dusk, over 1000 sheep came down one side of the mountain, bells tinkling and a couple of dogs managing them all. They came up the side of the village and the shepherd arrived in a small truck. He was another son of the bar owner.