Started out wearing rain gear and trudged into a muddy/clayey area, which fortunately didn’t last too long. Those of you who have encountered this sticky Spanish clay will know what a pain it is to walk in.

The weather has been surprisingly cool at times, warming in the afternoons only to the high teens or 20s, and most of the rain showers have taken place in the evenings or night, so it has been good walking weather.


When we arroved in Villaconejos de Trabaque, Pepe came to let us into the albergue beside the church. He and Paulino are very enthusiastic Camino-ists. They came back at 9 pm to take us to see a couple of the 190 bodegas in town. Then they, along with Pepe’s daughter, treated us to a detailed explanation of how the wine was and is made, then they served soup, ham, bread, and some of their wine. It was way past pilgrim bed time when we got back home!



Such lovely people. I remember that mud very clearly – sadly it was a feature of our camino.