Week 3. Pilgrims are getting silly now

The mood is changing. I don’t know if it is the current group of personalities or the time walking, but I’m encountering a bit of silliness while the pilgrims relax with each other and their routines. Although walking alone, I’ve been eating and drinking with a lively group including several Spaniards plus an assortment of…

Week 3. November on the meseta

After an unusually warm and sunny October, we are into November, and I am on the long stretches of the meseta where there are endless fields with little shade in the summer. These days are heavily overcast, very windy (headwinds, of course) and threatening to rain, so I had a good test of my more…

Camino – How to enter Burgos

Brierley’s guide shows three routes into Burgos but the signage is not good. It certainly wasn’t good on the “green” river route I took. I followed instructions provided on the Camino forum. I’m going to rephrase them below based on my walk a couple of days ago. 1. Follow the yellow arrows on leaving Orbaneja…

Day 15. Ages to Burgos

Not much to say today. Walked and walked and walked some more. Much of the terrain was on paths that had rocks of varying sizes so that one had to watch the route continuously, and place the feet carefully. The result is that I’ve got a touch of shin splints, in case you are interested.…

Day 8. Week of the pig, in Viana

I like encountering unexpected things when I travel. Today I wandered into the  Casa de Cultura in Viana (pop 3600). As far as I can determine, this week’s exhibit features the history and methods of killing pigs and making sausages. Yesterday there was a demonstration of soap-making from pig fat. Tomorrow there will be a…