The mood is changing. I don’t know if it is the current group of personalities or the time walking, but I’m encountering a bit of silliness while the pilgrims relax with each other and their routines. Although walking alone, I’ve been eating and drinking with a lively group including several Spaniards plus an assortment of…

After an unusually warm and sunny October, we are into November, and I am on the long stretches of the meseta where there are endless fields with little shade in the summer. These days are heavily overcast, very windy (headwinds, of course) and threatening to rain, so I had a good test of my more…

Brierley’s guide shows three routes into Burgos but the signage is not good. It certainly wasn’t good on the “green” river route I took. I followed instructions provided on the Camino forum. I’m going to rephrase them below based on my walk a couple of days ago. 1. Follow the yellow arrows on leaving Orbaneja…

Not much to say today. Walked and walked and walked some more. Much of the terrain was on paths that had rocks of varying sizes so that one had to watch the route continuously, and place the feet carefully. The result is that I’ve got a touch of shin splints, in case you are interested.…

As I started this post, I was in Granon getting cosy in my sleeping bag wearing my clothes for the next day. They also happened to be my clothes from the day just done. A night at this albergue is known to many as a highlight of the camino – the wonderful volunteer hospitaleros (a…

This morning I decided that my toe needed a day off. An infected blister and amputation would put a damper on my plans. I packed up my stuff as usual since we need to vacate the albergue for cleaning, until early afternoon. I went for coffee with the Canadian Clan, exchanged email addresses, and said…

I have demonstrated an inability to blog every day, or even to count the days. We’ll see how I do with the weeks. Today I feel like a real pilgrim as I am limping like many others. One of my small blisters is flourishing, and my baby toe hurts! I may need to give it…

I like encountering unexpected things when I travel. Today I wandered into the  Casa de Cultura in Viana (pop 3600). As far as I can determine, this week’s exhibit features the history and methods of killing pigs and making sausages. Yesterday there was a demonstration of soap-making from pig fat. Tomorrow there will be a…