On Saturday in the falling snow, J and I took a bus to a nearby village and walked 30 minutes to the little house his friend and wife have built on a hillside. The approach to the house is on a steep dirt road for which they keep a jeep.

She grew up in the location but her brother has the older house. They built a new one nearby, carefully doing it in the traditional materials and style. The wood was all felled on the property, and they did most of the work themselves. The window frames were custom made by local craftsman. The traditional wood stove is built into the kitchen with tile walls and even heats the hot water supply.

The house is decorated in the old style but with modern efficiency and simplicity. It was the first place I’ve seen on this trip that gave a cosy and pretty Christmas mood.