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Day 38: Rest day in Portomarin

Remember that fabulous dinner last night? Well? It didn’t agree with me so I had a bad night. Good thing I had the room to myself. I am wondering if the strange (to me) mushrooms on the veggie platter were a problem. Even though I’ve been trying to push ahead before the rain comes, and…

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Day 37: Sarria to Portomarin (24 km)

The book says only 21 km,  but I walked to the Sarria train station first and 24 is what MapMyWalk says. More country roads, farmyards and old stone structures. It goes on and on! I feel like I’m walking across a whole country on a route traveled for 1000 years. The weather is expected to…

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Day 36: Triacastela to Sarria (21 km)

Here’s a short post to catch up. The weather was OK and the walk quite pleasant – forest paths and country roads that go straight through little settlements. There are signs of commerce during the busy Camino season, but most are closed now. Here is a truck full of new concrete marker cairns, being installed…

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Day 35: O’Cebreiro to Triacastela (21 km)

Today I was weary. More so than any other day so far. Could be simply the toll of over 600 km. Could be that the weather has changed, from gorgeous to foggy-drizzly. Could be the unmistakable aroma of rural Galicia. However,  more likely it’s because  I slept so poorly last night. I went to bed…

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Day 34: Vega de Valcarce to O’Cebreiro (12 km)

Let’s try this again, but as a re-write, it will be shorter. This was probably the best day of Camino 2015 – only 12 km, although the 650 m climb made it a respectable hike.  The highway overpasses are quite a spectacular part of the scenery. The path started in the valley, followed a small…

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Day 33: Cacabelos to Vega de Valcarce (26 km)

Went a bit farther than planned  today because a lot of places are closed for the winter. The day started quite foggy and chilly. By the time I got to Villafranca del Bierzo, where I had to make a route decision, the fog was still in the hills. I had 3 choices… (a) most scenic…

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Day 32, continued: Dinner in Cacabelos

I’ve had a few days of mediocre “pilgrim menus”, in which I typically have either salad or lentils, following by a fried piece of meat and french fries. At about €10, it is good value in terms of calories per Euro, and it is widely available from 7:00 or 7:30 pm to meet the hungry…

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Day 32: Molinaseca to Cacabelos (24 km)

Today was fairly easy walking. It was foggy and cool most of the day. I went through Ponferrada with a glance at the Templars’ castle. I sat over a cafe con leche and giant croissant, reading a Spanish newspaper. The front page story about the Paris attacks was already out of date, so I read…