As I started this post, I was in Granon getting cosy in my sleeping bag wearing my clothes for the next day. They also happened to be my clothes from the day just done. A night at this albergue is known to many as a highlight of the camino – the wonderful volunteer hospitaleros (a…

This morning I decided that my toe needed a day off. An infected blister and amputation would put a damper on my plans. I packed up my stuff as usual since we need to vacate the albergue for cleaning, until early afternoon. I went for coffee with the Canadian Clan, exchanged email addresses, and said…

I have demonstrated an inability to blog every day, or even to count the days. We’ll see how I do with the weeks. Today I feel like a real pilgrim as I am limping like many others. One of my small blisters is flourishing, and my baby toe hurts! I may need to give it…

I like encountering unexpected things when I travel. Today I wandered into the  Casa de Cultura in Viana (pop 3600). As far as I can determine, this week’s exhibit features the history and methods of killing pigs and making sausages. Yesterday there was a demonstration of soap-making from pig fat. Tomorrow there will be a…

Two days of short walks (15 km each). It has been sunny and mid-20s. On the first night I had some unfriendly roommates but on the next evening at Albergue Puente in Puente La Reina (quite nice) I ran into a very agreeable crowd, half of whom are Canadians. One fellow is retired from the…

Here are some of the characters who are crossing my path these days. You read about A who adopted my spare boots. One striking thing about her is how un-shy she is. She may not be a careful planner in some ways – she was VERY impressed with my preparation when i pulled a needed safety…

The albergue in Roncesvalles is beautifully new and efficient, blending perfectly into an old complex. There were about 85 people overnight, compared to 400 or so during the peak season. Many people, especially Spaniards, start here. I set off with my 3 companions and during the day we spread out and separated, picked up new…

I already have a Camino coincidence story. To start, I confess to lying about my packing list.  I was carrying a huge additional item – a second pair of boots that weighed about 800 g. Two days before my departure for Spain; I was browsing through MEC (a mistake) and admired a new pair of…