Day 35: O’Cebreiro to Triacastela (21 km)

Today I was weary. More so than any other day so far. Could be simply the toll of over 600 km. Could be that the weather has changed, from gorgeous to foggy-drizzly. Could be the unmistakable aroma of rural Galicia. However,  more likely it’s because  I slept so poorly last night. I went to bed…

Day 34: Vega de Valcarce to O’Cebreiro (12 km)

Let’s try this again, but as a re-write, it will be shorter. This was probably the best day of Camino 2015 – only 12 km, although the 650 m climb made it a respectable hike.  The highway overpasses are quite a spectacular part of the scenery. The path started in the valley, followed a small…

Day 33: Cacabelos to Vega de Valcarce (26 km)

Went a bit farther than planned  today because a lot of places are closed for the winter. The day started quite foggy and chilly. By the time I got to Villafranca del Bierzo, where I had to make a route decision, the fog was still in the hills. I had 3 choices… (a) most scenic…

Day 32, continued: Dinner in Cacabelos

I’ve had a few days of mediocre “pilgrim menus”, in which I typically have either salad or lentils, following by a fried piece of meat and french fries. At about €10, it is good value in terms of calories per Euro, and it is widely available from 7:00 or 7:30 pm to meet the hungry…

Day 32: Molinaseca to Cacabelos (24 km)

Today was fairly easy walking. It was foggy and cool most of the day. I went through Ponferrada with a glance at the Templars’ castle. I sat over a cafe con leche and giant croissant, reading a Spanish newspaper. The front page story about the Paris attacks was already out of date, so I read…

Day 31: Foncebadon to Molinaseca (20 km)

Blisters are improving, shin pain is long gone, but I am still tired every evening! I usually leave a little later than the eager pilgrims, so sometimes I see very few people unless some keen walkers from prior villages catch up with me. Today I saw only 3 pilgrims until my destination! Short walk to…

Day 30: Santa Catalina to Foncebadon (18 km)

Goofing off to do blister care. First I had to take care of my blister. Sorry I didn’t keep a good photographic record, but here it is before the sock and shoe went on. It was an absolutely perfect morning to be walking – sunny and cool, with a good dirt path. By the afternoon,…